The Mr. and I took a mini vacation to one of my favorite places on earth, Martha’s Vineyard. For us it’s just a 2.5 hour drive and 40 minute ferry ride to get there. Although we’ve visited many times, this was a first in the month of August. We probably won’t do that again, as the island was crazy crowded. It dawned on me afterwards why…. This is illumination night week, Ag Fair week, and the Obamas come to stay for a while in the month of August… they arrived Saturday. Would have loved to meet them…alas, we did not.
Before celebrities and politicians made the Cape islands like MV and Nantucket “chic”, these were simple, beautiful, rustic, windswept agricultural and nautical treasures. They still maintain much of that charm, although summer crowds and high grocery prices, mansions for the mega rich and the now crazy-high cost of real estate has most likely driven many of the past generations of families out, which is a sad thing. I do feel for the locals as the summer people descend on their home territory. We used to toss around the idea of buying a small cape out there for our family to enjoy, but that window of opportunity has closed now that the cost to buy is outrageous. Stella, our little cottage by the sea here in CT, is an affordable alternative.
The ferry ride is where I let go of any tension and take on the island vibe. There are three major Ferries that take island visitors, delivery trucks, etc. and residents back and forth all day and a few high speed ferries as well.
There are six towns on MV, each having a unique vibe. Some more rural with more of the rugged island beauty, like Aquinnah, Chilmark, West Tisbury , whereas Oak Bluffs, Tisbury (Vineyard Haven Village) and Edgartown are very populated and developed. All are steeped in a rich maritime, literate and agricultural history.
We usually stay in Edgartown where the dining and shopping is plentiful and the walking neighborhood and gardens are absolutely beautiful. Our morning ritual is to get up before the crowds and walk along the waterfront street to the Edgartown Light and along it’s beach. It’s so peaceful on an early summer morning with a light breeze off the water. The few people we pass along the way usually greet us with “Good Morning” and we do the same. You know… that simple gesture is an uplifting thing, I wish more people took part. On island I have noticed many people were cordial, friendly, quick with a smile or a small kindness. Perhaps we are all getting weary of the hate and greed fueled circus in the news and Washington.
So come take a stroll with us…
The roses, hibiscus and Rose of Sharon were in full bloom everywhere – and the colors! Like this one below… were stunning.
At the end of the Edgartown Light beach, tucked around the bend we found an installment of the Kindess Rocks Project. So many inspirational messages left here and the creator left a box full of markers for those inspired to leave a message of their own. I loved it – more balm for the weary soul.
My small contribution below…..
There are many beaches on Martha’s Vineyard – some private, some public, some small, some large, some clothing optional and most respect the privacy of those who wish to go all natural and stay away from those sections. Funny story… once when my kids were young and I didn’t know the separate areas, we were walking down a long stretch of beach coming from the full bathing suit section and I noticed up ahead it appeared everyone was wearing pink bathing suits… that’s strange, what are the odds? must be a special group? …. until we got close enough for me to realize those were NOT pink bathing suits at all. So I grabbed the hands of my kids and we turned around before they noticed. Not that there’s anything wrong with nudity, but when you’re not prepared for public nudity it can be a bit of a shock and the reaction might be… rude. Or at least obvious.
Our favorite beaches are South beach and State Beach, as differing in temperament as the towns. South Beach at times can be wild in nature, wind and waves powerful, the ocean showing her might. Swimming is possible here but you better be good at it. We were here early morning just after breakfast and a rain storm. The atmosphere was truly exhilarating! I got soaked but it was worth it.
State beach (below) is a family favorite because it’s bayside and quiet. Great for small kids to play and swim and relaxing overall. The famous “Jaws” bridge is along this beach. It was our first stop after leaving the ferry, taking advantage of the sunny day.
We also indulged in our favorite meals at our favorite restaurants, the Black Dog tavern among them. (Building on the right) Many of the Black Dog clothing company photos you see in their catalog are taken on that dock. They have a great cookbook and children’s book about the original Black Dog, too.
I am a big fan of artist/author Susan Branch and we did a drive by of her home. She’s so generous with her readers, sharing her home and recipes and heart warming art on her blog and in her books, it was a treat to glimpse her home in real time. I tried to be respectful and quick, taking a photo from across the street and not gawking for more than 30 seconds. The home is every bit as charming as she is, with paper cut out hearts strung in the window, just one of the many touches she designs and applies. You can visit Susan Branch at susanbranch.com
We paid our respects to the late John Belushi, buried Up Island because he loved MV too… When he discovered the island and particularly “Up Island” where the rugged dunes and pastures and wind sweep coastline remain rural, he felt he finally found a place he could grow old. Sadly, he didn’t. People still leave stones, little messages, cigarettes, sometimes a beer. Rumor has it his body is no longer here – the partying got so bad at his grave site and his widow felt people were disrespectful, so she had his body moved to a more private site. A grave stone remains… and reads.. I may be gone, but Rock and Roll Lives On.
What a gorgeous place. Never been to Martha’s Vineyard although I have been on the Cape. Friend is visiting folks at Martha’s Vineyard right now but no idea where. Glad you and DH were able to get away for a few days. Does the heart good, doesn’t it?
It sure does, Sue – and you oughta put it on your bucket list – but I recommend picking a month other than August to beat the crowds. It’s beautiful in fall too!
That is on my bucket list. Hope to go there one day. Thanks for sharing your visit there!
I don’t think you’ll be disappointed. 🙂
Martha’s Vineyard is beautiful! We were there several years ago. We took the ferry over, love the ferry! So peaceful and relaxing to look out over the water. I’m a Pisces so I kinda like to think I have family swimming in the waters…lol.
We did a day visit and wish we could have stayed longer. I remember a bus ride around the Island. Holy cow! The driver must have had a promise somewhere, because he drove like a maniac! As we passed certain landmarks, like Jackie O’s home, Belushi’s grave, etc., he would shout out what was what and by the time I had a chance to look, we were already passed it! Had a stiff neck for days afterwards! We still chuckle about the bus ride from hell lol!
But I am so glad I went. There is something about the bracing air and the smell of the sea… and when you lick your lips, all you can taste is salt. Thanks for the memories!
As always, your pictures are awesome! The flowers are lovely. I especially like sea roses. The food looked pretty yum too! Did I see a tuna melt there? Loved the window boxes, the American flags, the sand, sun and sea pics!
But…no pic of you in a “pink bathing suit”! lol.
Thank you again for all the wonderful pictures and the chance to get our minds off the craziness that is going on in the world today…it’s more uplifting than you know.
hahahahaaaaa…. no… no pink bathing suit sported publicly by any of us 🙂 And.. oooh man, you didn’t get a good feel for the island at all, please go back and stay a few days – if you book your car on the ferry – (that should be done six months in advance, believe it or not) …. and drive yourself around, it’s a better experience. And, don’t go in August!!. June is a great month, September too.. and mid July.
You have the best hair! I’ve always thought this.
What a beautiful area of the country you guys live in. To be that close to MV and own your own cottage right where it is – man oh man! I’m in the land of 10,000 lakes (yet we bought our lakehouse in Wisconsin – ha!), but it’s the ocean that I love to see. Even with the worst hair you ever saw.
What a lovely post!
Well thank you for that!! My hair the entire three days was a frizzy wavy mess due to the humidity and dampness from the rain. So I just let it do what it wanted, not gonna fight the inevitable. 🙂
I do love this part of the country and feel very lucky to live here. Why don’t I know about your Lake house in Wisconsin?? How very cool!! I need to get back to your blog.
Thank you for sharing your getaway with us. I too, am a SB fan, so it was a treat to see her house from a different perspective. MV has been on my bucket list for years, and one of these days I will make it, but in the mean time your photo journal was just the ticket. (And I’ll take your advise, maybe a late September visit, not crazy about crowds.). Thank you also for sharing Small Kindnesses, I’ve pasted it into my journal, a better world will return, I have to believe.
I have to believe, too, Judy. Thank you for stopping by, and I hope you’ll get to MV, I doubt you’ll be disappointed. September is the best month on island in my opinion. 🙂
Oh! I am so glad to find your new blog!! I have not been to Martha’s Vineyard in about 40 years!!! I can only imagine the changes there. Had I bought a house there back then I would have been way ahead of the crowd. lol
Beautiful pictures all the way around-especially the one of you laughing on the shoreline.
I hope you have a wonderful week. xo Diana
Diana, we’ve said the same thing many time, LOL! We should have jumped on it then!
Glad to see you, hope all is well! Need to hop over to your blog again to catch up!
Karen, my Vineyard soul sister 🙂 I love this post so much, your words and pictures give a loving portrayal of the place that’s so close to both our hearts. I know what you mean about boarding the ferry and during that 45 minute said to the Vineyard leaving your worries and troubles in Woods Hole and just letting the aura and smells of the Vineyard wash over you. It’s an important transition time so that once you land there you’re ready for whatever magicalness the Vineyard holds for you.
Of all your beautiful photos the one I like best is you laughing in the surf at South Beach, it speaks volumes as to how happy you are there.
I’m sure you won’t go in August again, it’s crazy mad like you said. Try February, really, the Vineyard in the heart of the winter is a different kind of beauty… and… no crowds 🙂
<3
This post brings back a ton of my memories from MV several years ago and I have vowed to one day return. Did you attend the illumination? It was one of the most memorable experiences of my life, perhaps because I had no idea what to expect and found it enchanting. And you have, of course, discovered lots of things I never knew about — like the Kindness rocks.
I love Susan’s books and blog. I suspect if she was in the yard she would have run out to say hello! At least, I like to think she would!
Wonderful post, photos, you . . .
In the ocean waters . . . how refreshing.
I have not been to MV . . . hopefully one day . . .