The Mr. and I took a mini vacation to one of my favorite places on earth, Martha’s Vineyard. For us it’s just a 2.5 hour drive and 40 minute ferry ride to get there. Although we’ve visited many times, this was a first in the month of August. We probably won’t do that again, as the island was crazy crowded. It dawned on me afterwards why…. This is illumination night week, Ag Fair week, and the Obamas come to stay for a while in the month of August… they arrived Saturday. Would have loved to meet them…alas, we did not.
Before celebrities and politicians made the Cape islands like MV and Nantucket “chic”, these were simple, beautiful, rustic, windswept agricultural and nautical treasures. They still maintain much of that charm, although summer crowds and high grocery prices, mansions for the mega rich and the now crazy-high cost of real estate has most likely driven many of the past generations of families out, which is a sad thing. I do feel for the locals as the summer people descend on their home territory. We used to toss around the idea of buying a small cape out there for our family to enjoy, but that window of opportunity has closed now that the cost to buy is outrageous. Stella, our little cottage by the sea here in CT, is an affordable alternative.
The ferry ride is where I let go of any tension and take on the island vibe. There are three major Ferries that take island visitors, delivery trucks, etc. and residents back and forth all day and a few high speed ferries as well.
There are six towns on MV, each having a unique vibe. Some more rural with more of the rugged island beauty, like Aquinnah, Chilmark, West Tisbury , whereas Oak Bluffs, Tisbury (Vineyard Haven Village) and Edgartown are very populated and developed. All are steeped in a rich maritime, literate and agricultural history.
We usually stay in Edgartown where the dining and shopping is plentiful and the walking neighborhood and gardens are absolutely beautiful. Our morning ritual is to get up before the crowds and walk along the waterfront street to the Edgartown Light and along it’s beach. It’s so peaceful on an early summer morning with a light breeze off the water. The few people we pass along the way usually greet us with “Good Morning” and we do the same. You know… that simple gesture is an uplifting thing, I wish more people took part. On island I have noticed many people were cordial, friendly, quick with a smile or a small kindness. Perhaps we are all getting weary of the hate and greed fueled circus in the news and Washington.
So come take a stroll with us…
The roses, hibiscus and Rose of Sharon were in full bloom everywhere – and the colors! Like this one below… were stunning.
At the end of the Edgartown Light beach, tucked around the bend we found an installment of the Kindess Rocks Project. So many inspirational messages left here and the creator left a box full of markers for those inspired to leave a message of their own. I loved it – more balm for the weary soul.
My small contribution below…..
There are many beaches on Martha’s Vineyard – some private, some public, some small, some large, some clothing optional and most respect the privacy of those who wish to go all natural and stay away from those sections. Funny story… once when my kids were young and I didn’t know the separate areas, we were walking down a long stretch of beach coming from the full bathing suit section and I noticed up ahead it appeared everyone was wearing pink bathing suits… that’s strange, what are the odds? must be a special group? …. until we got close enough for me to realize those were NOT pink bathing suits at all. So I grabbed the hands of my kids and we turned around before they noticed. Not that there’s anything wrong with nudity, but when you’re not prepared for public nudity it can be a bit of a shock and the reaction might be… rude. Or at least obvious.
Our favorite beaches are South beach and State Beach, as differing in temperament as the towns. South Beach at times can be wild in nature, wind and waves powerful, the ocean showing her might. Swimming is possible here but you better be good at it. We were here early morning just after breakfast and a rain storm. The atmosphere was truly exhilarating! I got soaked but it was worth it.
State beach (below) is a family favorite because it’s bayside and quiet. Great for small kids to play and swim and relaxing overall. The famous “Jaws” bridge is along this beach. It was our first stop after leaving the ferry, taking advantage of the sunny day.
We also indulged in our favorite meals at our favorite restaurants, the Black Dog tavern among them. (Building on the right) Many of the Black Dog clothing company photos you see in their catalog are taken on that dock. They have a great cookbook and children’s book about the original Black Dog, too.
I am a big fan of artist/author Susan Branch and we did a drive by of her home. She’s so generous with her readers, sharing her home and recipes and heart warming art on her blog and in her books, it was a treat to glimpse her home in real time. I tried to be respectful and quick, taking a photo from across the street and not gawking for more than 30 seconds. The home is every bit as charming as she is, with paper cut out hearts strung in the window, just one of the many touches she designs and applies. You can visit Susan Branch at susanbranch.com
We paid our respects to the late John Belushi, buried Up Island because he loved MV too… When he discovered the island and particularly “Up Island” where the rugged dunes and pastures and wind sweep coastline remain rural, he felt he finally found a place he could grow old. Sadly, he didn’t. People still leave stones, little messages, cigarettes, sometimes a beer. Rumor has it his body is no longer here – the partying got so bad at his grave site and his widow felt people were disrespectful, so she had his body moved to a more private site. A grave stone remains… and reads.. I may be gone, but Rock and Roll Lives On.
