Marthas Vineyard – This Old House 2

Martha’s Vineyard 2018

The Mr. and I took a three day hiatus to the island of Martha’s Vineyard – just a 2.5 hour drive and then 45 minute ferry ride is all it takes to get to one of my favorite places on earth. It’s also one of the favorite places on earth of some 100, 000 other people. So, while there’s still a lot of wild, rugged, natural beauty on island and you can get away from it all if you go to the right places, it’s also extremely peopley in summer months. We found a mid-week trip is easier to navigate. There are no traffic lights on island and no fast food joints (imagine that! ) … and people manage to be polite to one another most of the time, and survive on decent food.

I love the excited feeling of pulling up to the ferry docks, driving on to the Ferry and sitting on the deck as we make the brief crossing to the island. Like a kid again, and I wish for all of you that you get that giddy feeling now and then, it’s good for the soul.

This is the Island Home ferry – in this photo we’ve just driven off it (cars in bottom level) and are on the beach nextdoor at the famous Black Dog restaurant, waiting for the lunch at noon opening. We’ve made this a tradition, and a better fish and chips dish you’ll be hardpressed to find.

Of the six towns on the island, Edgartown is our favorite place to stay. The Harborside Inn is our go to for short stays – right on the water, amidst all the quaint shops and restaurants, it’s a convenient location in a great walking neighborhood. The flowers absolutely everywhere are stunning… there is one landscape company on island in charge of all the planters, and most early mornings you’ll see the crews out there deadheading and watering, sweeping up debri.

In July the hydrangea, roses and daylilies are in full bloom – just glorious.

I noticed a white poodle is the accessory most yacht owners carry on and off boat with them. Many of those poodles have strollers if their owner is strolling around town. The poodle on this boat has a very good life, dining nightly with his/her owners on the upper deck, strolling up main street in the cool morning air, while the crew hoses the decks and squeegees the windows.

Flowers and american flags everywhere… the island patriotism is clear and present.

Below is a giant Linden tree – this photo does not do it’s size justice –

Edgartown Light – a favorite spot….

So photogenic, a great place to catch the morning sunrise or

evening breezes after a hearty meal.

And hearty meals were aplenty (ahem)

Katama airfield – the Right Fork Diner – fantastic, healthy choice foods…

If you’re on island, I highly recommend the experience.

The farm institute is just down the road..

We made our traditional trek through…

admiring the gardens and fields full of cows.

There are many beaches around the island – our favorites are the kid friendly

State beach that also includes the Jaws Bridge.. .

(I made the jump in my 51st year)

Gay Head, Moshup Beach (Aquinnah) … which we didn’t visit this year..

And South Beach, which can be wild at times…

The water here in the Atlantic Ocean is so clean and powerful. The hues are navy and sea blue-green. So refreshing ,too.

Funny thing – If you’re a jeeper you know all about the Jeep wave (or peace sign). Most jeepers are wavers. I’m a waver myself – I believe in upholding the tradition – which started when the original jeepers – GP-ers (general purpose vehicle) army folk used these vehicles in their operations. When they passed each other, they waved as a sign of camaraderie. For whatever the reason, on Martha’s Vineyard, no one waves. I mean NO ONE. Yet once you cross the ferry back to the mainland, the waves begin again. So bizarre. I thought about it. And I’ve come up with this. There are many many Jeeps available for rent on the island because you can take them offroading on some of the beaches and tourists think that’s way cool. Perhaps the tourists who don’t normally drive a Jeep aren’t aware of the Jeep tradition, and so they don’t wave or peace out. Perhaps the real jeepers who live on island have gotten so tired of being snubbed, they don’t bother anymore.

I waved anyway… I think jeep rental places should put a sign on the dash explaining the tradition. Some thingsshould be upheld, ya know?

My Jeep still carries the sand from our adventures this week, I think I’ll leave it there.

Heading home on the Governor… a smaller freight ferry.

MV 2016

I’m like a kid on Christmas morning when we roll into the Ferry line at Woods Hole headed for the Vineyard. Then when the Jeep is safely tucked in the belly of the Ferry and we take our positions upstairs on the deck, the engines roar to life and the navy and emerald green sea churns below and I know…. we’re on Island Time.

Our first stop is usually the Black Dog Tavern – where the seafood and the ribs and their red wine sangria are not worth dying over, but pretty darn good. Why did anyone ever coin the phrase – to die for – anyway? Would you really be willing to die over an exceptional meal or slice of cake? No food is that good. Anyway – the Black Dog cookbooks share some great recipes too, I recommend ordering one if you want to treat yourself.

This was our view from the Harborside Inn, where we’ve stayed when only on island for a long weekend. Right smack in the middle of Edgartown and also on the water, it’s a convenient location, walking distance to just about everything in town……

… including Edgartown Light. Mike and I are early risers, and we’ve made a tradition of walking to the light and along it’s beaches before most people have fetched their coffee from Espresso Love.

This year I found a live scallop… it hissed and snapped as I tried to observe it…

The quiet mornings before the rest of the tourists have come out to play is when I enjoy the island the most. I can only imagine what the residents think of those of us who invade their space for three months of the year. On one hand the tourism is great for business, on the other, a big nuisance for the locals. The population swells from 15,000 to 100,000 every year.. can you imagine. Then throw in a Presidential visit! We got in before the POTUS this year.

The walk to the light brings us past so many stately old sea captains homes and lovely cottages full of whimsy….. their gardens very well tended and brick walks add to the charm.

This pagoda tree is absolutely HUGE, notice how little the man is standing next to it.

The story behind it is pretty cool.

My son, years ago at the same tree…

Just down Water Street a few blocks over is the Chappy Ferry – a three car, two minute ferry ride to Chappaquiddick.

The beaches on Chappy or more wild and untamed with less people traffic. The Mr. prefers it and so we go….

While it’s nice to get away, just the two of us… I miss my kiddos when they’re not tagging along. But don’t ya know… two of them just happened to be on island at the same time. The family of my son’s GF rented a house just up and over a few blocks from the harbor. We had a wonderful evening together, getting to know the new faces and sharing stories with the familiar.

We visited the Tisbury Farm Market and oh let me tell you… these jams are – not worth dying for, but pretty darn good. Especially the Lavender Nectarine. They ship, fyi.

We also had breakfast one morning at the Right Fork Diner, at the Katama Air field. This plane
was made in 1940, the wings made of cloth, if you can believe it. You, too, can take a 45 minute ride around the island in this dual winged beauty. We declined – as the Mr. said… “There are many risks in life, and you have to decide which are truly worth the possible worst outcome. For me, This ain’t one of them”.

Alley’s General Store has been in operation since 1858… it’s so chock full of sillyness and well as the necessities, a visit isn’t complete without a stop in at Alleys just to see what’s new and piled high and grab a drink or three for the trek up island.

They say the Vineyard is for the Democrats and Nantucket is the Republican Island. Judging by the amount of Bernie bumper stickers, I say it’s probably true. The POTUS will arrive shortly for his yearly vacation with family, and I hope people will be kind. Seems they either love when the Pres visits or hate it, depending on how much motorcade traffic and cordoned off restaurants they have to put up with, I suppose. If I were a resident, I’d consider it an honor, just sayin –

Thought this was kinda funny… I CAN RELATE.

Hope you’re having an enjoyable summer – we are, despite the drought and heat.

Until soon – thanks for stopping by.

Vineyard 2014 – 3

Our favorite town on island is Edgartown and it’s harbor, home to the previously featured Edgartown light. So much charm in the old sea captains homes, their maritime history, the brick sidewalks, the old churches, the gardens, and even the visitors from all over the world who’s languages and accents float along the sidewalk as they stroll along. Restaurant choices are abundant and the food is fantastic. For those of you who like to shop.. you could shop till you drop.

This is our youngest crew – truly a joy to be around, I’m happy to say.

M & M on the left, my nephew C and his girlfriend on the right.

Polite, appreciative, helpful, Amen.

Moody skies on our first night…

The house we called home for a week… an 1800’s colonial

with wavy floors and big old rooms decorated in true vineyard style.

One of my favorites below.. but rents along the harbor waterfront are

very expensive. Our location on Main street across from the Old Whaling church

was more affordable and we found it very convenient.

Two great places to have breakfast.. the Right Fork Diner out at Katama air strip..

and the Main Street Diner in Edgartown.

This pic taken years ago at Main Street…

Same booth this time around….

The Atlantic at the base of Main street on the water is fantastic.

And a stroll around town after such a meal is delightful.

They look like an ad for Town & Country, don’t they?

Can you imagine sitting out on this porch overlooking the harbor with coffee every morning?

I think he consumed five lobsters while on island…

This pic was taken at the Black Dog Taven in Vineyard Haven.

We were thrilled to know our home away from home for a week would be across

from the Old Whaling Church… Mike loves the sound of church bells

and we had a front row seat!….

Until he realized it was going to chime.. every hour.. on the hour.. the number of times that was the actual hour… day… and night.

It made for some interesting sleeping… or not.

We came home with some wonderful memories, family time I will always cherish, and this….

Vineyard 2014 – 2

60 years ago the Vineyard had a slightly different feel… it wasn’t yet known as a Presidential and celebrity retreat. President Obama will be making his annual visit shortly and we saw many many flags on display and some storefronts paying tributeto the occasion. While I will assume there had always been an influx of summer people, the extent of it now can be… frustrating. Weekend crowds in the towns of Oak Bluffs, Vineyard Haven and Edgartown make parking a nightmare at prime dining and shopping times, and beach parking or grocery shopping are an experience all it’s own. When I see the congestion and the rudeness and arrogance of some summer visitors, I feel sorry for the locals. Their towns are taken over and littered on, although they make their best efforts to be cordial and keep the place clean.

That being said, there is still much natural beauty on island as you head out onto the country roads and explore. There are working organic produce farms and wildflower fields, old fashioned air fields, riding stables, an alpaca farm, livestock farms that provide organic beef, pork, etc… and ofcourse the beautiful shoreline. Katama, West Tisbury, Chilmark, Menemsha and Aquinnah (Gay Head), while popular with tourists, are still mostly uncongested and retain their bucolic rural beauty.

K, M & M took a trail ride through the West Tisbury woods and fields thanks to Arrowhead Farm…

Kayak anyone?

The Gay Head Light in Aquinnah… about to be moved approx. 180 feet back from the edges

of the cliffs…

The view from the light… The strand of sand below the cliffs is absolutely beautiful.

There is nude sunbathing at the far end if you’re so inclined. I love the clay cliff

colors and the boulders along what is named Moshup Beach. You can unload your car at the base of the hill on Moshup Trail but parking is at the top. Prepare to walk.

(photo above taken from internet)

Tomorrow.. Edgartown!

Vineyard 2014 – 1

We have just returned from a family vacation on Martha’s Vineyard, one of my favorite places to stick my toes in the sand and watch the power of the ocean unfold. Gently… not the BIG power, just the gentle stuff, ya know. The water there is different from our coastal water.. .Long Island sound and the CT River are brackish and tampered with silt and it changes the color of the ocean water as it comes to rest on our shores. Out there, the turquoise and navy and green hues of that refreshing clean ocean water are still a bit wild and unfettered .. it’s soul soothing, just that.

The island is so diverse, it’s hard to put into words in one post. So if you care to follow along, in the next few days I’ll do my best to describe the experience for us that is Martha’s Vineyard.

Let’s start with that ocean water and the various strands of beach… although I won’t cover all of them, these are the ones we visit…

Wasque Beach is a 200-acre nature reserve on Chappaquiddick Island off of Marthas Vineyard. The Boston Globe called this stretch of sand a “Magnificent Beach”. We have to agree – very pristine, not crowded at all, still ruggedly natural. Travel & Leisure calls it the best in New England.

My mermaid girl was carried off to sea not long after she was created…

Rip currents can be strong, so caution is always advised.

Note the erosion in the background, of which there is much.

Mike and I walked up North Main street in Edgartown most early mornings and then down the beach path to Edgartown light.. where I couldn’t resist wading in on those still water days to look for shells not yet discovered by beach combers. The water was so incredibly calm on two of these mornings… amazing, the ocean moods you witness if you spend any length of time by the sea. The Edgartown Light beach is the only dog friendly beach on the island, and is excellent for swimmers

State Beach is a very crowded but extremely young- child friendly beach for those who like their swimming water tame and shallow. Parking is difficult on weekends in the summer months – getting there early to set up is advised. We do a lot of sitting around with toes in the water or sand, book reading and football throwing here. If you plan to stay for more than a few hours, bring a cooler of food and drink and an empty bladder. – just sayin.

See the color of that water? Amazing.

This time around, I had someone with us who was willing to take the leap off the

JAWS bridge with me. My son’s girlfriend is a real trooper, I kinda love that about her.

And hell no, there is not a photo as proof. That would require a full body bathing suit shot,

and it’s just not happening here. 🙂

This is the JAWS bridge, named so because it was in the movie…

Here’s a scene in the movie with the bridge in the background… see the fin? …

State beach, scene from Jaws as everyone evacuates the water…

This one is just kinda funny. But Oh, how that movie terrorized me all those years ago.

More tomorrow if you’d like to tag along….

Airfield and Farm Institute

While on the Vineyard (AT the Vineyard? which is correct?…)

we found a new-to-us breakfast place that serves awesome healthy food

out at the Katama airfield… it’s called the Right Fork.

It has a view of the airfield meadow with the Farm institute just beyond.

We met a lovely woman who flies in this little tiny plane below with her husband.

They come from Boston – just a 55 minute flight in their own little plane.

She is braver than I… no way in hell ever after three blue moons

with the sun in the seventh house would I ever ever get in that plane.

Their shoulders touch when they sit it in, that’s how small it is.

Just beyond the airfield is South Beach.. a BIG and wild big wave beach, rockless, so it’s

good for swimming unless the untertow is particularly strong.

and in between the airfield and the beach…

is the Farm Institute, a non-profit teaching farm.

As we walked around the farm, they were gearing up for summer camp

and the farm stand had just opened with the beginnings of the summers bounty.

For more info on that, click HERE

Getting ready for arts and crafts in the barn…

I’ve only touched on some of the charm that is Martha’s Vineyard.

As you can tell from the last few days posts, it’s a diverse island full of rural charm,

seaside living, fantastic dining, camping, hiking, fishing, shopping…

Beautiful Inns, a wide variety of rental properties, and the list goes on and on.

It’s one of our favorite places to visit, and I thank you for tagging along

through my little blog right here.

Tomorrow.. an update on our farm here at This Old House 2.

We’re experiencing tropical conditions with daily rain and humidity we don’t normally see.

It’s a jungle out there! Wait till you see our tomato plants.

Have a good day all –

The Campground Cottages of Oak Bluffs

A trip to the Vineyard isn’t complete without a stroll through the Campground Cottage Community in Oak Bluffs. If you’ve arrived at the Oak Bluffs ferry terminal, you’re just a few blocks from the entrance to this unique community of some 400 cottages so charmingly and ornately decorated, you’ll want one to call your own. In another life after a big lotto win, I would own four in a little circle off the main Trinity Circle…where friends and family could join us for respite and fun.

For more on the history of the community,

click on this link http://www.mvcma.org/history.htm

Occasionally a few come for sale, and the price for a

“base model” is approximately $400K.

Most were built in the 1800’s and are kept up very well.

They are primarily summer residences, some winterized, and all

are sitting on leased land. So, you own the cottage, but not the land underneath it.

(thanks for that info, Joan)

The tabernacle, church and green are right in the heart of the community –

a great place to take in the cool breezes coming off Oak Bluff Harbor

and the music coming from the tabernacle.

This one in particular was calling out to me… it has a little bit of fenced in yard

(perfect for my dogs!) and is right on the green.

Or these two! Side by side..

To see the inside of the house on the right below

or to RENT IT!!.. click HERE.

The owners put so much effort into all the details that make these cottages

and this place so special.

Some of the cottages are available for rent, either by the week or longer..

click HERE for more information.

Tomorrow… off to Katama and the Farm Institute..

Aquinnah and 25

Rather than reinvent the wheel, I’m stealing words from Wikipedia below… I hope you don’t mind. Our favorite beach on the Vineyard is Moshup Beach, just below the Gay Head cliffs, now known as ” Aquinnah”… a town located on the most rural location of the island. We love it for it’s rugged natural beauty. Because of all the rocks, I don’t recommend it for swimming.. but bring your beach chair, suit for dipping and a good book and you’ll find peace in abundance. There is a hike from the parking lot way down to the beach itself, but it’s a pretty walk at that… and you can drop off the day’s supplies right near the beach before you park in the lot.

“The population of Aquinnah was 311 at the 2010 U.S. census. It is known for its beautiful clay cliffs and quiet natural serenity, things which have become less common in the heavily populated Northeastern United States. Below the clay cliffs is Jungle Beach, named for the lack of clothing worn. It’s one of the few nude beaches left in the U.S. More recently, it has become celebrated as a center of Wampanoag culture and a center of pride and tradition among members of the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head, who make up about one-third of the town’s voters. This area is one of the earliest sites of whaling, done from shore by the Wampanoags, long before the 19th century industry of whaling became the major maritime industry of Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket, and New Bedford, Massachusetts.”

The nude beach, to be clear, is all the way down at the end of the cliffside beach. We don’t go there, but if you’re so inclined, go for it!.. We stay at the other end where suits are the norm. Unless I suddenly wake up in a supermodels body, you won’t catch me bare-assed on the beach, ever. Pardon the french.

The directional signs on the island roads, some very rural.. look like this.

No trip up island is complete without a stop

at Alleys General Store in West Tisbury…where you will find everything and anything

piled high, floor to ceiling. Kids of all ages absolutely love this place

and if you’re headed to the beach, you’ll find all that you need right here.

Heck, I’m pretty sure if you’re headed to Europe you’d find the necessities.

So let’s head on down to the beach…you won’t believe the beauty that awaits…

I wasn’t kidding –

The beach below the cliffs is called Moshup’s Beach, named after a giant sachem who used to lead the tribe in days of old, of whom many myths are told. The ocean is a rare aqua color here with waves heights that are above average for the area.

Are you feeling the love yet?

This island is magical if you get away from the crowds.

Did I tell you this is our 25th Anniversary year?

It was nice to get away alone together to reflect on our relationship

and bring it back to just the two of us for a few days, no work hassles,

no bills or phone calls or interruptions of any kind.

We got along wonderfully and relaxed like we hardly ever do.

(although my calves are still aching from all the hiking.)

Have we had 25 perfect years? Hell no.

We are two of the most stubborn italians you’d ever come to know,

and we’ve had our share of rocks along the shore. Some were big ones.

But we have managed to wade through the waters together

and have found a rythym, an ebb and flow that work.

Honeymoon – 1988

Still crazy after all these years…

Lighting the Night

Edgartown Light is probably one of the most photographed..

an easy walk up Water street and out onto a sand spit at the edge of the Harbor..

Station established: 1828; Current lighthouse tower built: 1881

(moved from Ipswich in 1939); Automated: 1939

Construction material: Cast iron

Tower height: 45 feet; Height of focal plane: 45 feet

Original optic: Fourth order Fresnel; Current optic: 250 mm (solar-powered)

Characteristic: Flashing red every six seconds

Next stop… The cliffs at Aquinnah (aka Gay Head)

To Edgartown we go

When we visit Martha’s Vineyard, our favorite town to call “home” is Edgartown. If you’re staying in town or even on the outskirts, everything is within walking or biking distance. The shopping and dining can’t be beat and the ambiance of the old whaling captains homes, white clapboard and cedar shingle, brick sidewalks, street lanterns and abundant gardens is reminiscent of a very prosperous and gentler time.

Regarding the island, MVOL.com has this to say… “The 100 square miles of Martha’s Vineyard are home to six separate towns which have evolved six unique personalities since the first arrival of English settlers to the Island in 1642. The Island, with its beautiful beaches, nature preserves and historic villages, is a magical place to visit at any season. But one of the most unexpected delights for many newcomers is the rich variety and unique charms of these six individual towns.”

“In 1642, Rev. Thomas Mayhew, Jr. led a group of families to start a colony on the island after its purchase by his father Thomas Mayhew. Originally called Great Harbor, it was incorporated in 1671, and is one of the two original towns on Martha’s Vineyard, along with Tisbury. The town’s current name is in honor of Edgar, the young son of James II of England who died at the age of three in 1671.

Edgartown is well known as having been one of the primary ports for the whaling industry during the 1800s. Ships from all over the world would dock in its sheltered bay and captains would build grand mansions for their families. As more economical alternatives became available the whaling industry began to decline. By the beginning of the 20th century, its influence on the tiny town which had made its fortunes through the industry, was ended.

Today the town is more known for tourism, as well as the site of Chappaquiddick, where Ted Kennedy’s infamous incident took place in 1969.”

Lets take a stroll… and pardon the pic quality.. all shot with iphone. Hey, I got lazy.

On this visit, we stayed at the Kelley House, which has been in business since 1742 and is a registered Historic Hotel of America. Warm fresh baked cookies and milk are served from 8 to 9pm every night in the lobby, and there’s always a fire in the fireplace.